How to deal with late blight on tomatoes in open soil. What does blight look like on tomatoes? Description of the sign and photo of Phytophthora on tomatoes in open soil

Phytophthora (late blight) is a nightmare for city dwellers, like tomatoes and potatoes growing. The disease begins spontaneously, quickly attacks the growths and, because it cannot survive, the plantings are destroyed at once. Not for nothing, in the Latin translation “phytophthora” sounds like “ruinivnik roslin”.

Phytophthora on tomatoes is difficult to treat, so smut in the fight against it requires prevention.

What causes blight on tomatoes, and how to fight it - read about it below.

• Phytophthora appears on the lower, older leaves in the form of grey-green watery spots without a clear outline. These flakes quickly turn brown, dry, often with a light green lining made of fabric that has been dried. Step by step, the zones of the pattern spread throughout the entire leaf.
• In the world of “mature” illness, a white coating of millions of super-sacs develops on infected tissues.
• Dark brown spots develop on the stems and petioles, and they also develop a white fungal coating. If the petioles are damaged, the leaf may fall apart into fragments.
• Dark brown fatty spots appear on mature tomato fruits. The stench is hard, the bottom of the tissue, but it can become soft and rotten - when putrefactive bacteria are connected.
• In very cold weather, entire tomato fields turn brown and dry, as if after frost.

This is what late blight looks like on tomatoes (the photo below shows the damage caused by late blight: blight, fungal coating, zap fruit):

Damage to tomato leaves with late blight: brown spots with a grey-green lining, on the underside of the leaf with voluptuous margins the growth of superspots is avoided
On the stems of tomatoes there are black spots, and on the stems of the tomatoes they are covered with a white, fluffy coating.
Dark “fat” spots appear on the fruits of tomatoes.

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Tomato fruits begin to rot quickly when infected with late blight. However, even if the part of the fruit is not damaged, it is safe for ingestion, since the late blight pathogen does not produce a toxin.

These symptoms are also very suitable for other illnesses that are often affected by tomatoes. And here it is very important to pay attention to the difference.

• For example, with Alternaria dark spots, smaller sizes appear and characteristic little ones appear to have concentric rings or targets.
• With septoria, the spots are small, often with a light center.
• Dry stress can also be masked under blight by spreading large patches of dry cloth on a sheet. When the symptoms of dryness stress begin to spread along the edge of the leaf, they have a light green color between the dead tissue and no white overlay. In addition, the same symptoms do not appear on the stems or fruits.

Difference in damaged leaves due to late blight (photo of blight) and alternaria (photo on the right)

As a rule, all these “successor” diseases flow only into the badilla or cause minor harm to the fruits. And although stench can change the harvest, repeated waste does not cause stench. In this case, blight in just a few days can lead to the death of the entire plant, including the fruits and the resulting harvest. This is a serious threat to both individual gardening dominions and commercial growers.

Signs of Phytophthora: Causes of Sickness

Late blight of tomatoes occurs when the plants are infected with the oomycete (fungus-like organism) Phytophthora infestans. Infection occurs through supers, which dissipate in the wind from diseased plant tissues to healthy ones.

This process is rapid due to high humidity and moderate temperatures (15-22°C). Also, the disease often starts at high daytime temperatures (30-35 ° C), when the weather is cold, and night temperatures are mild (15-22 ° C). Similar weather in Ukraine is often caused by linden-sickle. During this period, it is possible to reach the point of becoming ill with late blight.

It appears that the Phytophthora pathogen does not live entirely in the ground, but can overwinter in tall trees, including untidy potato bulbs. Fresh tomatoes may also be infected from the beginning.

Often, late blight arrives on tomatoes from plantings of infected potatoes, where there is a stink of rotted soil (about 500 m). And since until now the plantings have not been protected by a similar fungicide, the weather is favorable for the development of the pathogen, on the Arkusha there is a lot of spotted water, the loose development of infection will not disappear.

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Cream of tomatoes and potatoes with late blight and other pasta plants: pepper, eggplant, pastel, petunia. Grapes, sunflowers, and cucumbers are often affected. Planting these plants can also become infected with late blight.

Prevention of late blight

Let’s get rid of the phytophthora, which is already rampant, on tomatoes it’s very difficult, the fragments of sickness are often unkerated, which quickly spreads for friendly minds. The most effective approach is to take preventive measures, which will significantly reduce the incidence of blight in your city.

What needs to be done so that blight does not appear in tomatoes:

• Choose varieties that are resistant to blight. The desired variety of tomatoes is not completely resistant to late blight, but is most resistant to this infection. Pay attention to early varieties of tomatoes that are about to reach the blight of late blight.
• Adjust the variety of tomatoes according to the recommendation for the variety. Maximum ventilation and lightening of all parts of the plant will help it resist diseases. Vicorize the trellises and supports. When growing tomatoes in the greenhouse, open the windows for ventilation more often.
• Grassroots soil is a friendly medium for the development of late blight. The water content can be reduced by adding peat to the soil.
• Do not plant tomatoes in one place. Carefully change the placement of the plantings, turn around in the wrong place after 2-3 turns. Do not plant tomatoes after potatoes, peppers and other paslons susceptible to late blight. Also, if possible, grow the beds with paslon relatives, giving one type of one.
• Do not let the bottom leaves of tomatoes fall out of the soil. To do this, shave the lower leaves to the first blade and mulch the beds.
• Uniquely water the animal. Water the tomatoes at the roots so that the leaves are dry. This aggravates the spread of late blight and other illnesses. Use top watering methods (with the help of sprinklers). It is best to water tomatoes at first half of the day so that the leaves dry out before it gets dark.
• Pay attention to the weather. Begin to recognize the weather conditions that predict widespread late blight. The ailment spreads rapidly in cold, wet weather, while dry weather causes the ailment to spread. If late blight has been detected in your region, begin preventive spraying with fungicides.
• After harvesting, remove all the tomatoes and potatoes, dig up all the potatoes from the ground. Oomycetes that cause late blight can successfully survive the winter in infected potatoes and tomato buds. You can't give them a chance!

How to fight blight on tomatoes without chemicals.

Folk remedies for blight on tomatoes are good because they are absolutely harmless, after processing them, tomatoes can be grown immediately, without the need for cleaning. This is only effective as an action to “get ahead”, as well as the prevention of late blight.

Kefir

1 liter of kefir, which has been left in a warm place for 2 days and fermented, is poured into a container with 10 liters of water. Mix and vikorize the tomatoes to coat the skins of the 2nd day after planting the seedlings in the ground. When the “late blight” period approaches, the frequency of brushing is increased to once per week.

Kefir + chasnik

Add the same kefir sumish (1 liter of fermented kefir + 10 liters of water) as in the previous recipe, and then “season” it with 50 g of porridge. Stir, check 2:00. Scrub the tomatoes on the skin 2 times.

Chasnik

Pour 200 g of porridge into a chasnik with 1 liter of water. Infuse in a dark mixture for 2 dB, then strain through cheesecloth and a sieve. Add water to 10 liters and give 1.5 g of potassium permanganate. Spritz the skin with the dried powder for 12-15 days.

Sirovatka + iodine

Pour 1 liter of fresh syrup into 9 liters of warm water and add 20 drops of iodine. Carefully mix and pour into the dispenser. Scrub the skin 2 times.

Sil

Prepare the salt mixture with 10 liters of water and 1 bottle of kitchen salt. Sprinkle the tomatoes once a month until harvest.

Drizhdzhi

Dissolve 100 g of pressed yeast in 10 liters of warm water (about 30-35°C, so that your hands are warm, but not hotter). This plant is used for sprinkling and watering tomatoes. Yeast growth immediately protects plantings from blight and strengthens the immunity of plants.

Copper drips from late blight on tomatoes

You can also roast tomatoes against late blight in a non-traditional way - vikoryst, as a dry ingredient is extremely effective. It is used to pierce the stem of the plant, as a result of which it contains microdoses of honey, which protect this type of phytophthora.

The recipe is simple: take a thin copper drill, clean it with an emery paper and cut it into strips of 3-4 cm. Pierce the tomato stem from the bottom (10 cm above the ground) with a scraper and fold the edges down. Do not wrap around the stem.

The method of piercing the stem with a middle dart has a mild and dramatic effect in the fight against late blight

Biological preparations against late blight (Fitosporin, Trichodermin, Planriz Toscho)

As a preventive method of combating blight on tomatoes, so-called biological preparations are often used. The stinks, as well as people's practices, can destroy plantings from fungal organisms, which can be frozen until they become sick.

The warehouse of biological preparations contains a variety of living microorganisms, which are natural enemies of oomycetes Phytophthora infestans and many other pathogenic fungi. When settling in the growing area, these “good” organisms remove their “bad” vessels and do not allow them to take over the already occupied place.

Fitosporin-M– the most familiar of similar preparations, which includes the bacterial culture of Bacillus subtilis or the soybean stick. The axis is exactly where the late blight superflutes are. The cream of the hay stick in the paste of Fitofsporin-M contains natural humins - natural goodness that heal the soil and stimulate root development. Scrub and water with Phytosporin to protect against late blight and apply every 10-15 days during the growing season of tomatoes.

Trichodermin- A preparation based on the microscopic fungus Trichoderma. It is noteworthy that this product suppresses over 60 different pathogenic microorganisms, including the blight of blight (as well as borer mildew, blackleg, fusarium etc.). Application of Trichodermin to the skin should be carried out for 10-20 days, depending on the weather conditions and the level of development of phytophthora.

Planriz– biofungicide based on Pseudomonas fluorescens bacteria, also containing biologically active substances – growth stimulants. The drug effectively protects tomatoes from blight and a variety of other fungal diseases, and also promotes the productivity and ripening of fruits. Preventive scrubbing on the skin for 10-20 days.

Also, to combat late blight of tomatoes, use the following biofungicides:

• Baktofit;
• Gamayr;
• Alirin-B;
• Mikosan.

Chemical control of late blight on tomatoes

Regardless of the great number of safe folk and biological methods used to protect tomatoes from late blight, it is necessary to include important artillery in the form of chemical fungicides. The stench is more effective when the appearance of feathers is a sign of illness. And it is also practical not to give a chance for late blight as a preventative measure.

Medicinal drugs

Treating tomatoes against blight with preparations to remove honey is a classic of the genre. No one felt a dozen more about systemic fungicides, and they fought against late blight with the help of copper sulfate and Bordeaux sulphate – and even successfully.

Copper sulfate

Prepare 2 tbsp. dilute tablespoons of copper sulfate in a small amount of hot water, and in another bowl, also in hot water, dispense 30-40 g of Gospodar's milk. Then pour a mile of water, gradually stirring, and pour in the vitriol concentrate. Add water until the volume reaches 10 liters.

Apply honey sulfate to the plant 2 times per season: 1st time after planting the bushes in the ground, 2nd time before the flowers appear.

Purification period (this is the term after the completion of any fruit of the harvested plant can be frozen in the juice) – 20 days.

Copper sulfate is an effective way to cure phytophthora for an hour

Bordoska sumish

The drug can be purchased ready-made or prepared independently with 100 g of copper sulfate and 100 g of copper.

To prepare Bordeaux mixture yourself:

• 100 g of copper sulfate hang in a plastic bowl, pour in a small amount of hot water. Mix well so that the crystals are completely broken up. Add more water to reach 5 liters.
• In another plastic container with 5 liters of water, add 100 g of slaked vapor.
• Vapnyana pours milk into copper sulfate.
• The fungicidal liquid is ready and you can sprinkle the weeds with it.

Bordoska can be used as a method of combating late blight on tomatoes, following the same scheme as copper sulfate. In general, 2 sprayings during the growing season: after planting the seedlings in the soil and before the appearance of the flowers.

Cleaning term – 20 days.

Bordeaux juice can be prepared independently from two ingredients: copper sulfate and honey

HOM

Contact fungicide with one active agent - copper oxychloride. Cleaning term – 20 days.

Oksikhom

A contact-systemic drug from two warehouses – midi oxychloride (as HOM) and oxadixil. While oxyhydroxychloride acts as a contact fungicide that removes dry sludge on the surface of the plant, oxadixil is a systemic agent that penetrates the plant tissue. Due to the combination of actions, the effectiveness of the drug is less likely to remain in the weather, less contact HOM, and better protect the unharvested parts of the growth (as well as new pastures that have grown already after cutting).

Cleaning term – 20 days.

About the fight against late blight and the use of additional drugs to remove copper, see the video:

Other effective chemical fungicides

Ridomil Gold

Active systemic-contact drug, effective for the prevention and treatment of late blight on tomatoes. We have mancozeb (contact action) and mefenoxam (systemic action). The soaking period for tomatoes is 10-14 days.

Quadris

One of the most progressive systemic fungicides, the active agent is azoxystrobin.

The soaking term for tomatoes is 5 days.

Also for late blight:

• Strobe;
• Fluidity;
• Acrobat;
• Thanos;
• Previkur;
• Pincozeb.

Rules for combating late blight on tomatoes

Knowing the right medicines against illness is another guarantee of better treatment. It is necessary to understand how to properly combat late blight on tomatoes.

And for this, follow the following rules:

• Superfluids of phytophthora very quickly increase the stability of the drug. Therefore, throughout the summer, try using 2-3 active fungicides with different active ingredients (chemical or natural).
• If you detect signs of late blight in tomatoes, look for the affected leaves and stems without stinging. Burn them. Do not compost!
• Pick up the harvested fruits when they are green for ripening. Wash them and soak for 2-4 minutes in hot water (around 60 ° C).
• Spray in the evening or on a gloomy day without wind.
• Pay attention to the term cleansing after exposure to chemicals.

If the fight against late blight is urgently started, then your tomatoes will not be affected by this attack and you will lose a rich healthy harvest

Type of blight on tomatoes and potatoes

Have your tomatoes and potatoes turned brown, and have black spots started to appear on the leaves, stems and fruits? Apparently, the plants attacked late blight. It’s no good to be angry! We know how to fight late blight.

This widespread fungal infection, which attacks us especially in paslon crops, manifests itself most often in cold and mild weather. Phytophthori spores can be found near the ground, on plantings, tree trellises, walls and in greenhouses, gardening equipment, etc. And in order to prevent the widening of the super-river in the trees, it is necessary to take preventive approaches.

Prevention of late blight

1. Good soil is a favorable medium for the development of late blight. It’s not good for him to start spluttering in the baths. If a lot of dirt has still accumulated in the soil, it is necessary to restore the natural balance of the soil: add peat and add coarse sand to the furrows.

2. Fungi give priority to the dry soil, so it is important to water the plants in the world and not allow the plantings to become dense. Water the potatoes and tomatoes so that most of the water can be absorbed into the soil by the end of the day. And when growing tomatoes in the greenhouse, ventilate them thoroughly.

In addition, humidity often develops when there are sudden changes in temperature (for example, at the end of summer, when the days are still smoky and the nights become cold).

At this time of planting, the open soil should be covered with spunbond. We are in a hurry to grow tomatoes, because they are susceptible to late blight, and the cold itself can harm them.

3. When growing up with a weak immune system, some kind of infection comes. Therefore, make sure that your tomatoes and potatoes produce enough essential microelements (iodine, manganese, copper, potassium and phosphorus). Then urban crops will have less chance of developing late blight.

And to enhance the immune system of the plants, it is necessary to do everything possible. So, good precursors for potatoes are cucumber, zucchini, watermelon, squash, cabbage, legumes, root vegetables, cibul, and for tomatoes - cabbage, cucumber, zucchini, watermelon, legumes, cibul, root vegetables.

4. You can prevent the development of late blight by growing varieties and hybrids that are resistant to fungal diseases. Choose clear planting material - and you will not need preparations against blight.

Phytophthori treatment

Chemical treatments for phytophthora on potatoes and tomatoes are more effective, but it is not recommended to stagnate them before the crops ripen. Therefore, in the other half of the year, it is better to spray the growths with biological preparations.

So, at a specialized store you can add Phytosporin, dilute it with water according to the instructions, first apply it when the skin appears, and then soak the skin growths for 10-14 days. In addition, for additional use of Phytosporin, you can treat the soil with phytophthora: before sowing or planting the sprouts, spill the soil or add the biological product to the irrigation water several times during the growing season.

How to process tomatoes and potatoes against blight using folk methods

We will find the most effective and time-tested folk recipes for safe preparations, which our grandmothers used to recommend to their green recruits as unsafe. late blight.

Infusion of chasnik with potassium permanganate

100 g of chasnik (you can use cibulini, arrows and leaves) cut into pieces (from meat cutter, chasnik or simply cut into small pieces), pour 1 bottle of water and infuse until long. Then process the masa, add 10 liters of water and 1 g of potassium permanganate. Scrub off the skin with a rose for 10-15 days. For the average skin, take 0.5 liters of vicor.

Trichopolum

This drug (and its analogue Metronidazole) can be purchased at the pharmacy. Dissolve 1 tablet of Trichopolum in 1 liter of water and sprinkle the tuber thoroughly every 2 times.

Milk syrup

The syrup from sour milk is diluted with water at a ratio of 1:1 and the sprouts of the lime tree are sprinkled on the skin for 2-3 days.

Most city dwellers who cultivate tomatoes in open soil in their garden have been diagnosed with late blight. In contrast to other vegetable crops, tomatoes are most often affected by these diseases, the main sign of which is blackened leaves and fruits. Today, there are many ways to combat such a scourge, which will be discussed below.

Phytophthora, or late blight or fungal diseases. This includes fungi, of which there are approximately 50 species.

The name "late blight" in translation means "to destroy the growth."

Fungi multiply through spores, and stinks occur in the soil, in excess of disease-ridden plants, and on gardening equipment. After winter ends, with the presence of friendly minds, the fungus begins to actively develop.

Most often, tomatoes are affected by disease during the rest of the summer. In sick people, the buds become yellow, and then they darken and die out. In the same way, the fruits become rotten, scum appears on the surface, and the stench begins to swell.

The ailment is spreading even quickly, in which case one must beware of the rapid deterioration of the bushes, which will soon die with the stench. If you do not take the necessary steps to combat late blight immediately, then your harvest will be wasted.

First signs of tomato disease

In order to promptly treat tomatoes with late blight, you need to know the first signs of this disease:

• on the convoluted surface of the leaf, dark brown buds appear, and then they begin to dry out and fly around;
• on the surface of the stem there appear brown spots of irregular shape;
• Beware of darkening and yellowing of flowers, as they quickly dry up and die;
• The fruits are decorated with black or brownish-gray colors.

In order for the fight against late blight to be effective, it is necessary to know what causes the development of the disease. Before such reasons lie:

• dense plantings (ventilation between the bushes is practically daily);
• explain those parts of the board that are guarded in the other half of the summer period;
• The soil is rich in nitrogen;
• tomatoes lack copper, manganese, potassium and iodine;
• tomatoes grow in a row behind the potatoes;
• sharp changes in day and night temperatures, dew in early morning (most often observed in sickle), cold;
• It is necessary to water the leaves and sickle trees when the fruits begin to ripen, as well as watering the leaves;
• There is a lot of water in the soil.

Tomato plants that grow in open soil are often affected by late blight if agrotechnical rules are not followed. As a rule, this occurs when there is increased moisture as a result of regular fall of mildew on the roof or some of the boards. To combat late blight, city residents use chemical, biological and folk methods.

Chemical drugs

Below we will describe the chemical methods that are most often used by summer residents to combat late blight:

1. Home. Fungicidal protection for contact action. Oxide of copper, which is an active medicine, does not penetrate throughout the bush. You should use it for preventive purposes, watering tomatoes up to 5 times during the season. The ailment of the plant cannot be cured. Worker's dispenser - 4 g of water per 1 liter of water. The drug is not safe for people, so they need to complete all necessary supplementary visits before the time of administration.
2. Furacilin. This antimicrobial agent, intended for humans, is also used to combat late blight. To prepare one liter of water, dispense one tablet. The harvesting is carried out three times throughout the season: before the bushes begin to bloom, before the first ovaries mature, after the beginning of the ripening of the fruits. Zasib is absolutely safe for people.
3. Metronidozole or Trichopolum. This is the same medicinal purpose for people, as summer residents have recently begun to take part in the fight against late blight. To prepare the mixture, use a liter of water to prepare a couple of small spoons. Scrub the area systematically once every repeat, or after scrubbing, the debris can be easily washed off with water.
4. Ordan. Such a fungicidal effect penetrates the entire bush, so the fruits after harvesting do not fall off the hedgehog for five days. To prepare the mixture, mix 1 liter of water and 5 g of the preparation. Sick plants should be sprayed periodically once every 2–4 days, and healthy plants should be sprayed as a preventive method - once every month. The drug is not safe for people.

Biological methods are more effective than traditional ones; they only work actively against odors at ambient temperatures above 15 degrees. The most popular drugs:

1. Baktofit. This bacterial fungicidal effect significantly reduces the number of pathogenic fungi in the soil even several years after cultivation. Please prepare according to the instructions indicated on the package.
2. Trichodermin. This is a complex biological system that actively reduces pathogenic fungi in the soil, and also reduces their life expectancy. Splash some soil and fluff it up. To increase the effectiveness of the drug, it is recommended to use milk whey or kefir instead of water during preparation.
3. Planriz. The warehouse, which is considered to be highly effective, contains live bacteria. It’s very easy to prepare the recipe; for one liter of water, add 5 grams of water. We use it to clear the soil before planting tomato gardens.
4. Phytosporin. This purpose in the fight against late blight is even more widespread. The soil is soiled in the spring, for which it is spilled with a mixture of 10 liters of water and 6 ml of the preparation.

Many city dwellers are trying to eliminate the presence of chemical preparations, the remains of the stench are not always safe for people, and most of these substances are removed. In order to protect tomatoes from blight, it is recommended to choose, in particular, national methods, which do not provide high efficiency, but the smell does not harm healthy people. The most popular folk traditions:

1. Kefir. It is used for prevention, as well as for the treatment of late blight. To process the huts, prepare a batch of 1 liter of water and 1 liter of kefir. You can replace kefir with milk, but in this case you can add 20 drops of iodine. Also, for squeezing tomatoes, you can use a mixture of milk syrup in a ratio of 1:1 to 1:2. The processing can be carried out at any time at any time.
2. Soda. In one liter of water, dissolve 1/5 of a tablespoon of soda and add a trowel of rare mil. Sprinkle the tomatoes once every 7 days or after the day has passed.
3. Sil. The salt rose is added as a preventive measure, and even after the wine has dried, it covers the top of the bush with a thin white ball, which prevents pathogenic fungi from penetrating the inside of the tomato. To prepare rosemary, take 25 g of salt for 1 liter of water. Peel off all the above-ground parts of the tabernacle, once the boards have passed, repeat the scraping.
4. Otset. Pour 100 milligrams of nine-hundred-hundred-hundred-liter tablespoons of otstu into 10 liters of water. Let's take away the spoils of all parts of the plant. It is recommended to use it using other drugs and folk methods.
5. Chasnikova tincture. To begin, detail the watch heads and hands. Take another bottle of the oil that came out and add it to a glass of water. Nasty will be ready for spoils. Soak two plants with it for a month.
6. The village is ash. To prepare rosemary, you need to mix 1 cup of water and five kilograms of ash. When the infusion is ready in three minutes, do not forget to stir it systematically. When the mixture is ready, process and add enough water so that the storage volume is 30 liters. Before sampling, add a little mila. Throughout the season, cultivation should be carried out three times: 7 days after planting the seedlings in the soil, shortly before the beginning of flowering and after the formation of the first ovaries.

The ash can also be used for sawing down the bushes. For this, mix one cup of ash from 1 tbsp. Tyutyunov drank. Before the time of filing, do not forget to clean the eyes of the body, for which the respirator and dry eyepieces are used.

1. Drizhji. Dissolve 10 g of yeast in a liter of warm water to allow it to sit, after which you can use it to brush the tomatoes. Trials should be carried out in particular to form the ovaries or to identify the first symptoms of illness.
2. Sino. Combine 1 kilogram of rotted hay with 1 glass of water, which is quite warm. Sumish add 100 g of sechovini. When the infusion is ready in three minutes, you will lose it without straining it.

In order to promote the effectiveness of any of the methods, it is necessary to adhere to the basic rules of processing:

• choose a fine day or a windless day;
• search the bushes early in the morning or in the evening;
• when dealing with toxic substances, it is impossible to lack safety equipment;
• It is not possible to mix ingredients and prepare dishes using utensils made of metal.

In order to protect tomatoes from late blight and preserve crops, you need to remember about preventive measures:

1. The plot where peppers, potatoes and eggplants were previously grown cannot be cultivated for planting tomatoes. Also, plots with these crops are not recommended to be grown one by one. In the same plot in which the tomatoes grew, they can only be planted again through several fates. The best are cucumbers, turnips, carrots, cibuls, beets and cauliflower.
2. Tomati relies on the goodness of the lightening business.
3. Fahivtsi are happy to produce early hybrids that are highly resistant to late blight.
4. If there is an excessively high volume of soil in the ground, then at the hour of planting, a little bit of peat is poured into the hole and a husk is placed, and the top of the soil is covered with sand.
5. The plants need to be well ventilated so they don't grow too thick.
6. Pour water every hour, including under the roots, and carry out this procedure at the earliest hour. From the middle to the end of the summer period, it is recommended to water only when it is dry.
7. Cover the top of the tomato soil with a ball of mulch.
8. In addition to tomatoes, it is recommended to grow calendula, cibul, black-brown, white mustard or chasnik.
9. Conduct on time.
10. Ensure healthy growths by treating them with potassium-phosphorus supplements, as well as treating them with immunomodulators.
11. It is recommended to apply nitrogen only from the ear in the middle of the growing season. If you add it to the soil in the other half of the summer, it will increase the incidence of late blight in the bushes.

It is often reported that city workers do not know the type of nutritional system that affects tomatoes with late blight. Below will be presented the most popular power supplies.

How to protect tomatoes from blight?

Fruits from an infected bush that are not affected by the disease can only be grown after being washed with hot water. For whom it is for 10–15 s. Immerse yourself in very warm water (close to 60 degrees). Then dry them and mince them until they are ripe. After harvesting, the red fruits can be harvested or preserved. Before speech, green tomatoes can also be preserved for the winter after harvesting.

How can you eat tomatoes with late blight?

Since there are black spots on tomatoes, it is not recommended to plant them after removing the crops. Fruits that have been affected by the disease are not abundant at all, can be eaten after washing in hot water.

How to cultivate the land after late blight?

As a rule, the soil on which the bushes grew, infested with blight, is covered with spring after the snow melts or before planting the seedlings. And therefore the following chemical preparations are used: Bordeaux sumish, oxyhydroxide, copper sulfate, Oksikhom and Farmayod and others.

Are varieties resistant to late blight?

Today, there are many varieties of tomatoes that are not affected by late blight. However, there are varieties that have even high resistance to illness, for example: Budionivka, Rozhevyi dwarf, Pributkovy, Dibrova, De Barao, Sonyachny, Snizhana, Metelitsa, Kostroma, Parterre, Vidradnyi and in.

How to prepare tomatoes for late blight

How to eliminate late blight? Prevention and ways to fight - video

Which method of curing tomatoes for blight to choose in a particular situation, the plant decides independently. It is important to note that neither chemicals nor folk remedies guarantee a complete reduction of late blight. Experienced summer residents recommend using different techniques and methods, and also do not forget about preventive measures.

Most city dwellers, growing tomatoes, suffered from such an ailment as blight, which manifests itself in blackened leaves and fruits. Tomatoes are more susceptible to illness than other vegetable crops, so it is important to notice them immediately. In this article we will talk about what fruits look like, blight, and how not to confuse them with other diseases of tomatoes.

The onset of illness due to uneven distribution of spores may be inconceivable. At the early stage of infection, the lower part of the leaf becomes covered with a coating of white color, which is important to detect, so the beginning of the epidemic can be easily missed. The coating gradually moves to the upper part of the leaf like brown spots. Following the leaves, the flowers appear, and then the fruits.

Phytophthora is rapidly spreading throughout the plantation, infecting not only tomatoes, but also other vegetables. Within three days the leaves will be covered with black spots, and the crop will be wasted.

How it looks: description of sign and photo

A skin gardener who experiences the growth of tomato plants needs to know the signs of illness “in sight” and, if necessary, immediately begin treatment.

Well, let’s take a look at the signs of illness.:

1. As has already been said, late blight infection begins from the leaves - a white coating appears on the lower part, and small brown spots appear at the edges.
2. Before the end of the day, you may want to cover the leaves with a light and white oil spray.
3. The disease begins to progress: the leaf loses its green fertilization, gradually becomes yellow, the edges of the leaf curl into a tube. After the greenery dries and falls off.
4. The stem of the bush is covered with brown flames of irregular shape.
5. The flowers bloom with yellow or lemon juice.
6. The next stage is when the flowers quickly turn black and fall off in large quantities.
7. Then the disease attacks the green fruits - brown spills of various shapes and sizes appear on them.
8. From unripe fruits, late blight quickly spreads to mature tomatoes, which are not yet harvested, so they themselves appear as spots of gray-brown color.
9. Vegetables are hard at first, but later become soft through the process of rotting.
10. The flames quickly spread and penetrate into the middle, causing the fruit to become severely deformed.
11. The skin of the tomato becomes thin, the flesh rots, and an unpleasant odor is released.
12. The plaid is easily pressed in areas of rot.
13. White mold appears on the growth.
14. When you cut an infected vegetable in the middle, you can remove the core, which is completely rotten.
15. After this, it becomes almost impossible to harvest the crop - the trees become covered with black flames, rot, the fruits fall off and, as a result, the bushes die.

Phytophthora develops most actively in soils that are subject to frequent watering or heavy rainfall.

Tse Illness is much easier to prevent, and will soon be cured Therefore, it is important for gardeners to carefully inspect and water crops so they can grow.

Now, if you know about the first and onset signs of late blight on tomatoes, we recommend that you learn what the damaged leaves and other parts of the seedlings and mature shoots look like in the photo.

What can late blight be confused with?

Before you start liquifying your tomatoes, you need to understand exactly what blight is infecting your tomatoes. Rotting of the fruits, the appearance of a bruise on the stems and leaves may be signs of some illness.

For example:

• The pinnacle of rottenness.
• Fomoz.
• Don't drive.
• Deficiency of boron and magnesium.

Let's figure out how to eliminate late blight from other illnesses:

1. Top rot affects only green fruits, and, as the name implies, drowns only the top. The vegetables gradually darken, the flesh becomes hard and watery; for replacement against late blight, in which the pulp produces an unpleasant odor.
2. When infected with Phoma, tomato leaves are covered with tiny dark spots, and the tomato itself is infected with a white stalk. Phoma can be infected by green or ripe tomatoes. Late blight and fomoz are very similar to illnesses, they are easy to confuse. It is important to know that Phoma blight attacks white tomatoes, since blight can spread brown spots all over the fruit.
3. If there is insufficient watering, the roots of the sprouts will “emerge” from the soil in order to remove the moisture from the soil. This is to be carried out until the fruits are released. It’s easy to water too little, even with late blight, the whole bush is affected, it appears covered, moldy, and if there is no water, the fruits simply turn black and dry.
4. A deficiency of magnesium and boron will lead to a slight progressive darkening of the fruits, no brown spots, rot or mold - just darkening.

Most often, tomatoes and potatoes become infected, so it is not recommended to grow both vegetables one by one. To prevent contamination of the soil, hang it from the soil after picking tomatoes.

Now you know what tomatoes look like when they are infected with late blight and how they are infected with other fungal diseases. Remember that the most important thing is a careful inspection of vegetable crops and the use of necessary approaches to look for the first signs of late blight.

Korisne video

We recommend watching the video about how to recognize Phytophthora disease and how to fight it:

Late blight is a major scourge of plants of the paslon family. Fungal disease - late blight of tomatoes - begins on the surrounding bushes and quickly consumes all the shoots. This is one of the most unwelcoming phenomena, which may very quickly bring a lot of inconvenience to summer residents and city dwellers. If you don’t need to trim the bush immediately, you can forget about homemade tomatoes. The sick tomatoes are gradually becoming covered with brown spots. The leaves suffer first, then the stems and fruits. Literally in a few days the harvest will be harvested.

Photo of a tomato suffering from late blight:

Signs of tomato late blight

Phytophthora spores spread, spreading into the vegetation and soil, quickly spreading. Over the course of 3-16 days, the development of illness begins.

Plant fragments are harvested at different hour intervals and unevenly, the cob stage of late blight may pass unnoticed.

Late blight on tomato leaves.

Every year, on the leaves and stems there are dark patches of brown or grayish-brown color that quickly expand.

Late blight on tomato stem
Signs of late blight on tomato leaves

In areas of high moisture, a white, fluffy coating appears on the underside of the affected leaves on the stems.

On the fruits there are dark, melting spots that can become angry with each other, gradually spreading across the entire surface. The fruits are often deformed, swelling into a flexible shape.

Phytophthora on tomato fruits

The core of the fruit is hard, but as the disease progresses, it softens and begins to rot. As a result, the surface rots and develops a characteristic pungent, unpleasant odor.

Phytophthora has plagued the tomato, photo

The disease can also appear during the ripening period (bringing to maturity in the herds) of green fruits collected before the symptoms of late blight appear. The loss of crops without stagnation of fungicides in storage can exceed 70%.

Therefore, late blight is transmitted to tomatoes from nearby potato plantings: the supercanes are washed into the ground by water and the stinks spread over large areas. Otherwise, tomatoes become infected due to infected bulbs that are left in the ground after the previous crop, susceptible to late blight. Just as late blight appears in potato plantings, the disease also appears in tomatoes over a period of 2-3 years.

As a rule, the development of illness is provoked by three days (more than 2-3 days) due to the accompanying decrease in night temperature. The difference between day and night temperatures becomes 8-12 degrees. Such changes cause a clear fall of dew, which further advances the moisture, lying directly on the trees. The combination of all these factors creates the most comfortable conditions for the propagation of late blight.

Favorable development of fungus – high humidity, low wind temperature, fog. In dry, sleepy weather, illnesses do not develop at all.

To ensure that the yam plants are no longer healthy, when planting, it is necessary to keep large intervals between them, to keep the rows evenly dense, to periodically remove the lower coarse leaves, to mulch the soil with hay so that they can be moistened. Water the plants of the paslon family, especially under the roots, so that they do not get wet.

Prevention and treatment of tomato late blight

I included in the subtitle the words about treating tomatoes against late blight. Let me know that this illness practically cannot be cured. You can also trim, enhance these developments, or avoid their appearance. If there’s a problem here, come in prophylactically.

Since the illness is clearly visible to the unbroken eye, most of the people I give birth to, unfortunately, are dead, so it is necessary to steadily follow the weather forecast. As soon as the temperature drops below 15 degrees Celsius, it is often necessary to carry out drying.

After identifying the first signs of illness, immediately remove the damaged leaves, salivate them, pick up the fruits when they are green for ripening, carefully rinse them, disinfect them with water at a temperature of 60 C for 2-4 days. Treat the area regularly with anti-late blight medications. In this way you can vryatuvat a part of the song.

To prevent and suppress the development of late blight, fungicides – these are chemical and biological preparations for combating fungal diseases. Biological – Fitosporin (5 g per 10 liters of water), Ecosil (15 drops per 3 liters of water). Khimichny – Bordoska Ridina, Ridomil Gold MC, Tattoo, Kvadris, others.

Preparations to combat late blight.

Vikorist chemical preparations, pay attention to the terms of treatment, written in the instructions, after any action the chemical preparation is neutralized, the fruits can be eaten.

To prevent late blight, you can immediately after planting the seedlings in the greenhouse or sprinkle the dry soil with milk syrup. Syrup contains lactic acid, lactic acid bacteria, which inhibit growth, proliferation of fungal spores and phytophthora. Ale work is required regularly every 7-10 days. And the testimony of rich city dwellers is that one milk syrup without stagnation of chemical agents has already been protecting their tomatoes from late blight for many years.

I want to get ahead of you, homemade chili syrup should be diluted with clean water instead of fat. The fatter the milk is, the more water you need to add. Milk fat clogs the pores of the growths, and it stops dying. It is enough to dilute innodes 1:3, innodes 1:1.

You can also use homemade whey, extracted from long-sour milk - there is a lot of acid in it - you can remove the acidic residue of the leaf.

I shop at the vikory store and sometimes buy syrah at the market. I try store-bought for relish - if it’s not sour, and the fat content is no more than 1%, then I don’t dilute it.

Before speaking, the syrup contains the microelements necessary for the development of tomatoes. What a miracle of life.

About twice a season - once for seedlings and once during the flowering period - I add a drop of iodine to the syrup for sprinkling. The solution is as follows: 10 drops of iodine per 10 liters of syrup. Iodine does not protect tomatoes from late blight, but will help the fruits become clear and dry.

Summer residents and city dwellers with experience recommend treating thick skin 2 years ago. And under the hour of partial rainfall at least once a week. Carry out the soaking in the evening after sunset or early in the morning. Leaves, stems, fruits should be watered with fungicide on the soil under the dew so that the fungi that live near the ground die, do not multiply, do not develop.

The risk of late blight in tomatoes is advancing when crops are planted in soil with high nitrogen content. In such cases, it is recommended to supplement the supplement with added potassium and phosphorus, which will strengthen the immune system. Some people know that eggplants and peppers are sick, so they should be processed as well as tomatoes.

It is clear that Phytophthorus has the power to bind to chemicals, through which at least 2 drugs must be prepared, which are based on different words that can be used.

It seems that tomatoes can protect against late blight the honeydew entwined around the bush. Or stretch a honey ring across the stem. But I didn’t bother anyone myself, because I doubt that puncturing the stems for growth will not be costly.

If late blight has already infected the tomato leaves by 60-70%, you need to ripen the fruits - treat them with a dose of kitchen salt (1 kg per 10 liters of water). Ale tse extreme approach. Vikorist is used in order to harvest the fruits. It kills all leaves, infected and healthy - blight will not spread to the fruit. And the fruits that have been set before this hour can be seen.

The fight against already infected weeds is ineffective; reproducing can, as a rule, be very short-lived, so maximum attention should be paid to preventive measures.

To ensure maximum protection of the crop from late blight, low agrotechnical inputs are carried out:

• Select tomato varieties that are resistant to late blight for planting.
• To reach the minds of the correct cosmos: cultures that are sick enough to fall ill themselves should not settle in the same place sooner, but after 3-5 years.
• Maintain extensive isolation of crops susceptible to late blight.
• Maintain the necessary distance between the holes when planting seedlings: for early compact varieties not less than 30 cm; for older adults – 40-50 cm; stand between the rows of at least 70 div.
• To prevent late blight in greenhouse tomatoes, do not plant the plants in open soil in a row outside the greenhouse.
• When moisture levels in the greenhouse are high, ensure the plants are ventilated and promptly remove the shoots and lower leaves.
• Use healthy seeding material for planting.
• If a sign of potato blight is detected, treat the tomato planting with special fungicides.
• Apply fungicides to tomato plantings before the start of the long rain season.
• Every now and then you can see the weeds, the lower leaves, and carry out pawing.
• Do not exceed the norm of nitrogen fertilizers for tomatoes; the excess nitrogen will reduce the incidence of late blight.
• Water early in the holes under the holes, and do not allow water to fall on the trees.
• It is time to add fertilizer instead of phosphorus and potassium to improve the firmness of tomatoes until they become sick.
• Choose for planting early, fast-growing varieties of tomatoes that ripen before the end of the planting season and, presumably, are susceptible to the development of late blight.
• In regions with high humidity, spray tomatoes with systemic contact fungicides, which can significantly reduce the risk of developing late blight.

Fungicide Strobi will help control tomatoes

Fungicide Tubes for harvesting tomatoes from blight, photo

Kozhen Gorodnik, a lover of tomatoes, knows how bad the long rains and cold dew at the end of summer are, like the growths in the open ground, as well as in the greenhouse.

I’ll tell you straight away that this is strong and effective. This may indicate that Strobi is toxic. To what extent did that stagnant dosage vikorize, Fitosporin - she was also satisfied. I love experimenting, so I wanted to try this rock Strobi. The cob of the city rose was already more wobbly, I was afraid that my tomatoes would not be exposed to the cold, some of the wood, and would get sick from late blight. It all worked out. I stopped Strobi just once - there was no late blight.

Naturally, I cut off all the leaves on the tomatoes that were not suitable for me, with spots and dry ends. These days the fruits were not damaged.

We’ll tell you right now how I prepared the robberies. The sachet of Strobi contains small granules - mostly powder. One sachet (2 g) is added to a glass of water. It takes less than 100 mature tomato bushes to dry.

When the mixture is cooked, a spit appears on the surface of the water, but when stirred continuously it disappears.

The instructions include safety precautions before preparing food - it is also toxic. I prepared it with mittens and eyepieces, so as to avoid any splashes of droplets on the skin and mucus.

The drying period of the Strobe is 10-14 days. Rechovina decomposes well in the ground and has minimal toxicity for animals. It’s good because in the city there are little hedgehogs and little cats who like to hang out between the beds in the shade in the summer heat.

I spray not only the upper surface of the leaf, but also the lower one.

The biggest advantage of Strobe is that it is effective at low temperatures - it can be sprayed onto wet boards. Moreover, the old man was sick on the cob, and he also fell apart. Even the cold weather in Vologda makes it easy for late blight to develop. I don’t know of any other drugs with such powers. We hope that this drug can overcome late blight.

It is also grown on other trees: apples, grapes, pears, kvitas (especially on Trojans). Alas, I still shouted at them tomato. And that gave me away.

There is only one downside to this drug - it is chemical.